Thursday, 20 June 2013

Hair pH balance

pH (potential of hydrogen) is the measurement of how acidic or alkali a substance is, the scale ranges from 0 to 14, acidic between 0 - 6.9 (lemony taste), in the middle we have water with pH 7 (water taste) and from 7.1 to 14 is alkaline (soap like taste). 

Our hair and scalp are pH 4.5 to 5.5 the level is this low as the body helps us fight off fungi and bacteria, therefore at this rate the hair cuticles are laying flat and closed up.

Alkaline products cause the hair cuticles to open up, and acidic products cause hair cuticles to contract. High alkaline environment causes a buildup of fungi and bacteria, this is due to products that strip your hair and scalp acidity i.e. relaxers are very alkaline with the presence of sodium hydroxide (pH 10 to 14) and calcium hydroxide (I just found out this is the same product that is used in sink de-clogging products, it is proven to burn through hair and grease! Yikes! Neutralize that hair neutralize it!!! This got me very scared, but women all over the world have shown it can be used in a safe way!)

For curly hair the cuticles are already partially open, therefore for women with curly hair it’s even more important that we get our hair back to the normal hair balance! Straight hair ladies have less of an issue with this, as their cuticles are already laying flat.
What needs to be done...:

1.     Use a natural acid to bring your hair into an acidic pH range, these natural acids are ACV diluted as its pH 4, Aloe Vera juice is great! Lemon is too acidic pH 2!! Closed cuticles means less frizz!

2.     Use products that are pH balanced

3.     Always use a leave in conditioner in your hair after washing, water is neutral pH so will increase the hair pH balance, therefore using a leave in conditioner that has aloe vera or natural acid (ACV) will bring the hair to its pH of 4.5 to 5.5, provided its mixed well, make sure to touch up with the leave in conditioner in between washes as it evaporates. A good homemade conditioner by kimmaytube is Aloe Vera Juice, Jojoba oil and castor oil, mix and check pH. Or my personal favourite silicone free conditioner, and oil and water, cheap and does the job

4.     Finish off washing hair by giving it a blast of cool water that will close the hair cuticles.

No nos!

1.     Don’t use baking soda to clarify hair, a lot of ladies on the net use baking soda, its fair too alkaline! At about 8 to 9 pH

2.     Lemon is too harsh on the hair it’s at pH 2!! This needs to be diluted and pH checked

What I am taking away from this

1.     Cool water rinses after every wash day to help close up the hair cuticles

2.     Leave in conditioner after every wash and a top up mid week with my home made leave in.

3.     Try ACV I need to find a good natural ACV and have it in my spray bottle to use with my washes as an end

Happy Hair Journeys ladies :-)

‘Discover and rediscover a passion’

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